BEIRUT: “The only thing I miss about the US is uninterrupted electric current,” says Ali, a 20 year old Lebanese-American English Literature student spending his summer break in Lebanon. “My mother, on the other hand,” he chuckles, shaking his head, “can’t wait to get back.” In one sense Lebanon isn’t a conventional destination for many tourists. Notorious for its political violence and instability, Lebanon has gained, over the years, the reputation of being a fragile country. If that isn’t enough to repel tourists, then the poor public transportation system, the few free public beaches, the severely congested roads with inadequate signage, the power cuts and water shortages are sure to do so.
However, the latest figures have shown that these negative factors don’t seem to be deterring the influx of tourists to Lebanon. There must be strong positive aspects, or else why would people visit a country that can, too often, be a hassle to deal with?
Surely, a diverse cultural heritage and imposing ruins, alongside the natural splendor of its shoreline-to-mountaintop layout represent a handful of offerings for those who vacation here. But the country’s poor infrastructure and steep expenses are a leading drawback for tourism in Lebanon, very often clashing strongly with the visitors’ stay, thus making it a not-so tourist-friendly country.
The tourists who come to Lebanon can generally be grouped into three categories: Arabs [mainly from the Gulf, but also Jordan, Syria and Egypt], Westerners, and members of the Lebanese diaspora, coming back to check up on their families or property in their homeland. The various negative and positive factors of Lebanese tourism ricochet in different ways off these categories.
For Gulf Arabs, the prospect of a cooler climate is a constant draw.
“I love coming here, the weather is very nice compared to the heat back home,” as Nora, an 18-year old Saudi Arabian visiting the country, puts it succinctly.
Needless to say, however, the pleasant climate isn’t the only reason Arabs have been coming in great numbers to the country.
Lebanon is by far the most broadminded and liberal in the region, which surely attracts people from numerous less forward-thinking Middle Eastern countries. Lebanon becomes a sort of haven to those who feel restrained by the limitations of their homelands, be it for legal, social or religious reasons. Alcohol is more readily available, and the night life is constantly booming, meaning that Lebanon is certainly the answer.
This category of tourists is not immune to power cuts and possible water shortages. But many Arabs who come to Lebanon on vacation have the resources for a generator and the majority of problems that can be solved with cash or a credit card.
The conclusion is rather harsh: the more money you have, the more comfortable your stay will be. But the financial cushion supposedly enjoyed by Gulf tourists, for example, has its limits, as 2009 proved.
Not everyone has the patience to deal with the power cuts and water shortages. Nora’s family cut their vacation short because of over seven consecutive hours of power cuts in Aley, much of the food in the fridge went bad.
“The prices of the food are increasing, and the groceries are always going to waste. We were supposed to stay for a month, but we’re leaving two weeks early now because of this electricity problem,” says Nora’s mother.
Throngs of visitors who have their own homes in the Aley-Bhamdoun-Sofar region reportedly cut their stays short due to the water and electricity problems, and added expenses.
Young Westerners, on the other hand, come chiefly to enjoy the summer heat and patry their nights away in Beirut’s famed clubs. Europeans seem particularly keen for a taste of something fresh and original, and non-Arab tourists might be less concerned by the poor electricity situation, not finding it to be an intolerable burden.
“Power cuts not really a problem, just accept them very quickly,” says Rachel, a 23-year old who studied Middle Eastern art in the UK, here for a visit.
But traffic congestion and chaos, coupled with a sometimes confusing road system are obviously hassle for those who are used to a much simpler and clearer way to get around.
“The main problem is navigating [around] Beirut – taxi drivers don’t seem to know any places or even street names, also, [it is] quite difficult to walk because big roads have lots of traffic and bad pavement,” Rachel says.
And when things break down, one positive aspect of the local tourism industry kicks in.
“Everybody is very honest and helpful, generally very pleased to help you enjoy things and give advice and directions. It feels very safe [here], even on my own,” Rachel adds.
The category of Western tourists can also be split into groups – older tourists on packaged tours, where they’re spared the problems with figuring out directions by themselves, and perhaps the hassle of electricity cuts, if they’re in a good hotel.
Meanwhile, the younger, independent tourists might be out for adventure in the first place, meaning that they take the hassles in stride, as “part of the experience.”
“Those who come to Lebanon come looking for an adventure,” says 23-year-old Kenny, who came from Birmingham in England to visit a friend.
“In London, you see the same faces every time, everywhere. After a while, you realize you need to go somewhere completely different and just try new things.”
A third category of tourists covers Diaspora Lebanese, whether they have recently departured, or “long-lost” Lebanese. This group comes back to visit relatives, sightsee, and perhaps check up on business or other interests.
Again, there are sub-divisions involved. Some have a soft spot for the country, ignoring most of the imperfections and perhaps considering it part of the “charm” of Lebanon.
But another group perceives their homeland quite harshly, comparing the services and other aspects to their new countries of residence. The poor road conditions and the incessant power cuts aren’t charming at all to them.
Despite what Diaspora Lebanese might think about the homeland, they’re likely to continue visiting the country, due to family ties or other reasons.
But Westerners and Gulf Arabs might require serious improvements to Lebanon’s tourism industry if their numbers are to become sustainable resources.
A laissez-faire economy might be attractive for some, but Tourism Minister Elie Marouni issued a strong warning to the local industry this summer, urging establishments to avoid overpricing and taking advantage of the country’s guests.
Lebanon’s tourist police do exist, and according to Nada Sardouk, the director general of the Tourism Ministry, they’re “capable of intervening whenever tourists experience problems of any sort, any time of the day or night.”
Aside from the resort town of Bhamdoun, which has its own small tourist police unit, the central authorities’ tourist police are based at the Ministry: 18 civilian “inspectors,” and another 35-40 individuals who are part of the Internal Security Forces. They can be reached by dialing 1785, and these personnel organize patrols around the country.
“They aren’t enough,” says Sardouk, “but they are not working alone. Members of the army and the ISF help them out, but so far, most problems have been minor and well taken care of.”
“We hope to have tourist police personnel at the airport next year, and at the borders,” she adds.
By way of comparison, tourist haven Greece has double Lebanon’s population, but a total of 64 full-fledged Tourist Police stations around the country, a stark reminder of how little tourist infrastructure there is in Lebanon at the moment.